Ripe and rich but beautifully focused — verbena, bitter almond and wet stone thread through creamed yellow apple, pear and melon. Tight and zesty on the palate, reflecting the high proportion of Clairette in the blend alongside Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Bourboulenc. Very long finish with a gorgeous salted butter echo. White Châteauneuf-du-Pape is one of the Rhône's best-kept secrets, and Vieux Télégraphe's is among the finest — from the celebrated La Crau plateau.