Volume and straight presence with a touch of austerity — but that apparent austerity is really line purity. Present tannins bring amplitude and texture, with ripe red fruit, delicate spice and earthy depth. Bonnes Mares straddles the boundary between Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis, and Arlaud's expression captures both villages' character. The 2004 will have evolved beautifully over twenty years.